FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

Reinterpretation Of Changshan

Tong Tong's Garment

This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment. With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era (1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.

While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, Tong Tong's reinterpretation of the Changshan innovates this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.

A high-twist wool twill was chosen for this project due to its springy nature, offering ideal structural support for the garment and a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of the traditional Changshan.

The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.

This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.

Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.

The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.

The design honors the timeless elegance of the Changshan, a revered traditional Chinese menswear garment. Evoking its refined silhouette, this reinterpretation seamlessly blends heritage with innovation. Vertical seams and discreetly integrated pockets enhance functionality while maintaining modesty. Crafted from high twist wool twill, it offers structural support and a wrinkle-free appearance. Through meticulous tailoring methods, the challenge of reimagining the neckline is overcome while ensuring both smooth curves and structural integrity.

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